Mallorca poc a poc

'poc a poc' (bit by bit): slow down, enjoy the present moment to the fullest. This Mallorcan phrase encapsulates the island's relaxed pace and can often be heard among the locals.

I was never fully convinced about my decision to go to Mallorca, the largest of the Balearic Islands. On one hand, knowing it was a popular destination with hourly flights from London had me concerned about crowds in flip flops flocking to overcrowded sandy beaches. On the other hand, the northern part of the island, nestled in the Sierra de Tramuntana with its hidden rocky coves and lush landscapes, had piqued my interest for some time.

Once I landed in Palma and started heading north towards my destination, Deía, I felt transported to an entirely different pace. The landscape dramatically changes to small winding roads surrounded by mountains, cliffs dotted with ruins of ancient watchtowers and stunning sunsets over the Mediterranean.  

Deía was my base for the entire trip. I stayed at Hostal Miramar, a very basic family run hotel tucked away from the main town in a truly romantic setting with amazing views over Deía and homemade breakfast. 

This particular part of the island has notoriously attracted artists and writers. Among them, Frédéric Chopin and George Sand settled in the nearby Valldemossa and the English poet Robert Graves, who made Deía its home.

Today, while it still draws creatives, the influx of U.S. and Scandinavian expats transforming old fincas into artistic and yoga retreats gave me a sense of lost authenticity upon arrival. You can really tell by looking at property prices that the locals have been priced out.

Things began to change in 1987 when the Virgin Group boss, Richard Branson, obtained planning permission to build a luxury hotel called la Residencia. Branson sold the hotel in 2002 which is now owned by Bernard Arnault, Chairman and CEO of LVMH and currently the 2nd world’s wealthiest man.

Having said that, I wouldn’t come with the expectation of landing on an untouched Mediterranean island. Instead, I would treat nature as the main focus of this trip. The key is to visit off-season when temperatures are mild enough to enjoy the sea and the views. The island is great for outdoor activities such as hiking, camping or climbing and Mallorca-born psicobloc (aka Deep-water soloing), a form of free-solo climbing where any fall ends in deep water.

MY HIGHLIGHTS

Sa Calobra Scenic Drive: considered one of the best scenic drives in Spain, it is truly breath-taking. An intricate road with twists and turns surrounded by rocky mountains.

Renting a boat from Port the Soller and exploring the coast (Nautic Soller). If you have a license you can get a llaüt, the typical Mallorcan wooden boat.

Caló des Màrmols: this was hands down my favourite swimming spot. The water is so clear, it’s like a swimming pool. Steps down to the water are cut into the cliff. It is very remote, only reachable on foot by a tough 75 minutes hike or by renting a boat from the charming Cala Figuera.

Cala Tuent: a perfect stop after the winding Sa Calobra drive. This tranquil beach with blue emerald waters has stunning views of the surrounding mountain range and its highest peak, Puig Major.

Es Terrer: a rocky cove with crystal clear waters and views over Sa Dragonera, a reserve island shaped like the back of a dragon. It’s a very quiet place, you may find yourself alone there. It is super easy to reach.

Cala Boquer: a tranquil cove with very curious wild goats looking to steal food from your bag. To reach it, there is a short stony hike.

Please note that all the places that I mentioned above have no facilities, so go prepared with food and plenty of water.

Towns

Back in Deía, stop at the cute café De Monio, a perfect spot for a snack and to buy a travel memory as they sell beautiful ceramics, glassware and the avarca sandals.

Valldemossa: don’t miss Ca’n Molinas. Try their traditional Coca de Patata (sweet potato rolls). In winter you are supposed to accompany them with a hot chocolate but in the summer with Granitado de Almendra (almond granita). Another island’s delicacy is Ensaïmada, a snail-shaped pastry. You can either have it plain, with apricots or filled with custard. If you are into baking, read all about them here.

Soller: with its main square full of cafes and the old tram passing through, it’s very picturesque.

Fornalutx & Biniaraix

I fell in love with the peacefulness of these two villages surrounded by olive and citrus groves and the mountains in the background. Next time I visit Mallorca, I would base myself here.

In Biniaraix, I really liked the BODEGA, a bar run by three women with excellent local products. They organise weekly pop-up dinners. Try their olive latte.

Still on my wish list is Ca Na To Ne Ta, a restaurant nestled in the small Caimari village run by two sisters - Maria and Teresa Solivellas. Apparently this place is a real experience with a focus on seasonal Mallorcan cooking and indigenous food varieties.

Markets

Consell Market, a huge open air market in an industrial area. It reminded me a lot of Porta Portese in Rome for both size and the fact that it really feels like a real treasure hunt among the vast array of second-hand clothing, antiques, bric-a-brac and furniture.

Every Sunday from 08:00 to 14:00.  There is a field allocated for parking which has a €1.00 charge.

Next to Consell, there is cute little town called Santa Maria del Cami that every Sunday hosts a market. It was the perfect spot for a quick snack and to get some food for a day by the sea like Coca de trampó a vegetable-topped flatbread or more simply some bread and local jamón.

Palma

Don’t leave without spending a day in Palma, the island’s capital which also has become a popular destinations for creative expats and digital nomads.

Start your day with a coffee and pan con tomate at Cafe Riutort and start wandering the old city visiting landmarks like La Seu - the cathedral - and the cool designer shops. Don’t miss Arquinesia, a perfume shop set in a typical Mallorcan house in which every room is an olfactory experience dedicated to Mallorca. They have 5 scents related to the island – Orange, Fig, Sea Breeze, Secret Garden and Scent of History. Every fragrance is offered as Eau de Parfum, liquid soap, shower gel, hand and body lotion, bar of soap or scented candle.

For lunch, head over to Mercat de Santa Catalina and look for the buzzy, local-favourite Bar La Tapita.

When the sun sets, make your way to Bar La Sang, a natural wine and tapas bar. The vibe is great and they put on really good music. Every dish was amazing as they use the best sourced ingredients from local producers. Here is a good place to try sobrassada, a cured sausage from the Balearic Islands made with ground pork, paprika, salt and other spices.

Getting around

I would recommend renting a car at the airport. I used Click Rent and had a good experience. The island is very big and requires a lot of driving, especially if you are willing to explore its different faces as I did.