So many people I know are visiting Puglia this summer, and I've been sharing my favorite places with them. I thought it would be helpful to write a post focusing on a particular area of the region: the Valle D'Itria. Located on an elevated, fertile plain in the center of Puglia, the valley runs along the Adriatic Sea. The contrast between the blue of the sea, the white of its masserie, and the interior covered by olive trees creates colours that you will hardly forget.
When I visited, I stayed in a weird-looking trullo tucked away in the countryside and explored the region by car. My days were a delightful mix of exploring the valley towns, enjoying beach days with packed lunches of local delicacies, refreshing with iced coffee or ice cream, having aperitivo in our trullo, and dining in different towns each evening. These villages really light up at night, both literally and figuratively, with many musical events, including the famous Locus and Polifonic festivals over the summer.
Disclaimer: Very famous but tourist hotspots are Alberobello, Polignano and Ostuni. They’re truly unique, but especially in the summer, they become overcrowded and lose their allure. If you are there during the high season, try to visit them early in the morning or brave the heat at lunchtime when people are at the beach. Otherwise, skip them altogether and visit them in the low season.
Trulli Spotting
The valley is most famous for its trulli, the traditional whitewashed stone huts with conical roofs. Dating back to the 14th century, they are made from abundant white limestone slabs, with roofs of thin, peppered gray slates arranged one on top of the other. Originally serving small-scale landowners or farm laborers, these structures acted as dwellings or storage for livestock, grains, and grapes. The thick walls provided ventilation in summer and insulation in winter, while the roofs were designed to prevent rainwater from entering. Despite their robust construction, the roofs were intended to be temporary to avoid property taxes imposed by the Kingdom of Naples. Removing a single roof slab could transform the structure into an incomplete building, evading taxes.
Today, about 1,500 of these trulli are concentrated in Alberobello, a UNESCO World Heritage site. Their unique architecture is protected to preserve Puglia's cultural identity. Strict regulations prevent deconstruction, restructuring, or significant alterations. Despite their humble origins, trulli are now in high demand, often transformed into luxury accommodations.
A perfect lunch spot in Alberobello away from the crowds is Terra Madre. Enjoy a meal sipping a chilled primitivo rosato in the beautiful vegetable garden at the back where all their fresh produce is grown.
Beyond Alberobello, the countryside around Locorotondo, Fasano, Cisternino, and Martina Franca is also rife with these fairytale huts. I recommend visiting all of them. Cisternino is also the homeland of the legendary bombette: slices of pork seasoned and stuffed with cheese, folded into a bundle, and skewered. The fornelli in which they are cooked have become an attraction. For a lazy dinner after a day at the beach, we got take-away aluminum trays with bombette and fave e cicoria (white fava bean purée with wild chicory sautéed in garlic and peperoncino) and sat in the square.
Another beautiful town is Castellana Grotte, famous for its caves. Don’t miss a dinner at Osteria Del Caroseno, an excellent family-run osteria offering innovative interpretations of typical recipes.
Polignano a Mare
Polignano is incredible. The town pushes itself right to the edge of limestone cliffs with caves carved by the Adriatic's relentless erosion. Its uniqueness, however, makes it uncomfortably crowded in the summer.
Polignano is also famous for being the birthplace of Domenico Modugno. You probably heard the lyrics “Volare, oh-oh, Cantare, oh-oh-oh-oh”. His greatest hit, Nel blu dipinto di blu, topped the charts in Italy, France and the United States and won a Grammy Award. Sadly, Modugno is often only associated with this song. So please, explore his other works too.
To enjoy some peace, head to the dreamy old fishing port of Port’Alga. I loved every second of my afternoon there. Later in the day, with the saltiness still on my skin, we got some beers and enjoyed the perfect sunset on the rocks in front of the Abbey of San Vito.
Beyond Valle D’Itria
Technically not in Valle d’Itria but close enough, Monopoli is a must-visit. I fell in love with this town, its ancient port, and incredible water. I dream of renting a flat here and working remotely. Don’t miss the beautiful Cala Verde and Cala Tre Buchi.
Conversano is part of the lesser-known Puglia, a medieval town dominated by its castle and well-known for its Ferrovia cherries. I left my heart at Caffè dell’Incontro, a real temple of coffee and ice cream run by Franco. The marble counters, vaulted white ceiling, and black Thonet chairs, along with Franco’s elegance and rituality, made it very special.
Hidden Gems
My highlight was the area around Speziale, a seemingly anonymous spot with true gems:
Il Cortiletto: Nestled at the crossroads of Fasano and Cisternino, this restaurant has a beaded doorway leading to a precious veranda and an incredible menu.
Tony: For a casual dinner with panzerotti (a fried crescent of pizza dough stuffed with mozzarella and tomato) and an iced cold beer.
Crovace Oronzo: Your headquarters for all ingredients Puglia. Collect the best cheeses, cured meats, and local delicacies for a picnic and talk to the passionate Oronzo. Stock up on taralli for merenda or aperitivo.
Panis: Their focaccia is mind-blowing. Get an entire one! It will be the perfect lunch at the beach.
Grottaglie
A bit of a detour from Valle d’Itria, Grottaglie is a must-visit for ceramic enthusiasts like myself. Its centuries-long history of artisanal ceramics production is thanks to the rich clay formations in the area. Spend a few hours in Grottaglie’s Quartiere delle Ceramiche and meet artisans in their bottegas, continuing the historical tradition of ceramic tiles and ornaments.
For traditional ceramics, head to Bottega Vestita, where the friendliness and love for the craft are evident. The large workshop of Fasano is also worth a visit. You can find Franco in his white apron, painting what he calls “contemporary faces”. I couldn’t resist and ended up getting one of his plates for myself.
Another cool atelier is Giorgio di Palma’s. After practicing archaeology and computer science abroad, Giorgio returned to Grottaglie and creates full-size ceramic reproductions of common objects with obsessive attention to detail.
In London, ceramics have been fashionable for a while now, but they are slowly regaining interest here too. Gradually, more artists from around the world come here to experiment and learn ceramic techniques from skilled artisans, bringing fresh perspectives. While Grottaglie celebrates its ceramic heritage, young artisans reinterpret these traditions in new ways, which is crucial for a country like Italy.
Puglia is a region brimming with charm, history and culture. I hope this guide helps you discover the magic of this enchanting area that really holds a special place in my heart. I can’t wait to be back and explore more.
What a great itinerary for a future visit! Food for body and soul! Thanks!
Un pugliese non l'avrebbe potuta raccontare meglio!