I spent many moments of my childhood in Rome and have always felt a strong connection to this city. However, I vividly remember a work trip from London in 2018. Returning from a meeting to Trastevere, where I was staying, I thought to myself, "I wish I could spend a period of my life living here." A year later, I ended up working there for two and a half years and immediately felt at home. I have a lot to share, but symbolically, I begin with this neighbourhood, one of the most famous but with a still very genuine and authentic side.
I explored the city extensively, eager to discover its many facets. For me, it was like uncovering my family roots. My grandma Carla lived with my mom and her sister in Trastevere for a few years in the late '70s and early '80s. During my time in Rome, I felt as if I was retracing their steps from when they were young. Sometimes, I would stop outside their old house and try to imagine them leaving for work and school, grasping at what their lives were like before I was born.
During their Trastevere years, they lived in a small apartment in Piazza Tavani Arquati. From my grandma’s stories, I could already sense a change in the neighbourhood. Downstairs lived elderly women di borgata, while upstairs was an English journalist. It was the beginning of the transformation we see today - a popular neighbourhood that attracts creatives from all over the world for its charm and history, yet still retains its soul.
Every time I enter Trastevere through the Tiber Island, I need to pinch myself to believe the beauty it exudes. Its greenery, the ruins of Ponte Emilio, the flowing Tiber, and the sound of seagulls create a mesmerising atmosphere. I also love the mix of eras that coexist here - from Roman ruins to medieval landmarks around Piazza in Piscinula, from the Renaissance splendour of the marvellous Villa Farnesina to remnants of fascist architecture. Trastevere is a labyrinth of cobblestone alleys adorned with cascades of jasmine and bougainvillea, and green arches. It offers oases of peace like the Botanical Garden and the decaying Villa Sciarra at the boundaries of the Monteverde neighbourhood.
Every proper morning in Rome starts at un forno. Grab a slice, or two, of Roman pizza from La Renella to eat while walking. Just a bit further is Pasticceria Valzani, which has been producing traditional Roman sweets since 1925. The quintessential landmark is the Basilica of Santa Maria in Trastevere, renowned for its mosaic-covered facade dating back to the 12th century. Around the corner from here is the heart of the neighbourhood, Piazza San Calisto. At Bar San Calisto, an institution, you can have a caffè con panna in the morning and observe the daily life of people and the elderly playing cards in all their Roman spirit. In the evening, the square becomes increasingly lively with street musicians and a diverse crowd of young people and international students from nearby American universities.It's the meeting point for all generations. Trastevere has always inspired Roman popular songs and singer-songwriters, and even today it continues to be the backdrop for the trap artists of the so-called Lovegang who hang out around here.
Further ahead is Piazza San Cosimato, which hosts a grocery market in the morning. There is also a cool natural wine-focused shop, Les Vignerons.
Quite random but worth it is entering the cloister and turning right—you’ll end up inside the local hospital, which is really strange, with old tombstones and amphorae in the corridors surrounding another cloister with hospital signage. Crazy place.
Piazza San Cosimato transforms into an open-air cinema on summer evenings, and this is truly a beautiful story to share. In the nearby Via Natale del Grande, you’ll notice the remains of a disused cinema with the sign Cinema America. The cinema originally opened its doors in 1956. For decades, it served as a beloved local cinema, screening countless films and becoming a cornerstone of the community. However, as with many historic cinemas, it eventually faced the threat of closure and demolition. I Ragazzi del Piccolo America, a group of passionate young cinephiles, banded together in 2012 to save the cinema from destruction, seeing it as more than just a building - it was a cultural landmark and a vital part of the community’s identity. To prevent the cinema's demolition, the group occupied the building, an act of civil disobedience that quickly gained public attention and support. They began hosting film screenings, discussions, and cultural events, bringing the cinema back to life and demonstrating its continued relevance and importance. Their efforts garnered widespread support from locals, cultural figures, and even international celebrities. The movement grew, and what started as a small group of determined youths became a significant cultural and social movement in Rome. Among the initiatives promoted in recent years is Schermi Pirata, which brought the images of great films to the walls and monuments of the city, and Cinema in Piazza, which involved a large part of the Italian and international film world, like Jeremy Irons, Ken Loach, Wim Wenders, and Paolo Sorrentino, to name a few. It became a true act of activism in making cinema free and open to the public, making it accessible to everyone and even redevelop green areas of Rome. Their activity has led to the reopening of another cinema located in Trastevere, Cinema Troisi, with a study room open 24/7.
It’s one of my fondest memories of my summers in Rome. Enjoying a movie in the piazza while savouring a pizza straight from the carton, seated in a foldable chair or on a cushion brought from home. When they reopened for the summer season after lockdown, I realised I was sitting next to the Prime Minister at the time!
Talking about food in Trastevere, my favorite places for thin, crispy pizza and the legendary supplì al telefono are Ai Marmi & Da Ivo. For a quick non-seated meal, try Supplì.
For a classic trattoria experience, Da Enzo al 29 is touristy but I enjoyed it (prepare to queue). Otherwise, Augusto is a no-frills family-run place. Don’t expect too much from the food, but it’s perfect for a simple, almost cafeteria-style meal sitting outside. For something more upscale, try EVO or the wine bar L’Antidoto. If you want to end with ice cream, Otaleg is my favorite.
Viale Trastevere divides the neighbourhood in two, and I adore the area beyond the avenue. You can't miss Piazza dei Mercanti and the Basilica of Santa Cecilia, which hosts Stefano Maderno's masterpiece sculpture of the corpse of the saint. The crypt there is spectacular. Walk along the quiet Via della Luce and follow the smell to Biscottificio Innocenti, a place where time has stood still. Stock up on a variety of biscuits and pizzette.
Not far away is Porta Portese, where every Sunday morning a huge market is held. There's a lot of junk, but there are still some spots where you can find cool pieces to bring home.
Just before the gate where the market begins, there's a fascist-era building that was designed as a recreation center for State Monopoly employees. After World War II, it became a variety theatre and later used as a cinema until 1991, when it was purchased by Sacher Film, a film production company founded by Nanni Moretti, an Italian director whom I love. Sorry, I have this thing with old independent cinemas, as you've already seen with London. Anyway, one of his most famous films is Caro Diario, composed of three episodes in which Moretti plays himself in a sort of open diary (that I've already mentioned here). The first episode, In Vespa, sees the protagonist riding his Vespa through the neighbourhoods of a summer and almost deserted Rome, showcasing the diverse urban landscape of the capital. It reminds me a lot of my Roman explorations and seems like the perfect way to conclude this article.
Our favourite part of Rome by far, Allegra